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Qumran National Park

An Essene sect lived in Qumran over two thousand years ago and much has been discovered about why they came here and how they led their lives here. After viewing the movie and the ruins, consider taking a short hike into the mountains above Qumran for a wonderful view of the settlement and the Dead Sea area. Qumran can also be approached via a fascinating desert Scroll Trail. Round off the day with a visit to the beautiful oasis of Enot Tsukim, only an eight-minute drive away, for a swim, picnic and short nature walk. 

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​Directions and parkingEnter "Qumran" into Waze. There is parking in front of the main building.

Admission: This is a park of the Israel Nature and Parks Authority. Summer hours are Sunday to Thursday and Saturday 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., Friday and holiday eves 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Closing hours are one hour earlier in the winter. The last entry is one hour before closing time. Admission is 31 NIS for adults, 16 NIS for seniors, 26 NIS for students and 16 NIS for children. Their phone number is: (02) 994-2235. Updated information on hours, etc., can also be obtained at *3639 or on the Parks Authority website. Tours in Hebrew or English can be prearranged. There is a gift shop and restaurant, and both are open when the site is open. The restaurant is open on Saturday and does not have kashrut certification. There is no picnic area. The museum is currently closed for renovations. It will probably be open mid-summer. 

Public transport: Enter "Qumran" into Moovit and click on "Khirbat Kumran.” A bus leaves frequently from the Jerusalem Central Bus Station and stops at the junction for Kibbutz Kalya and Qumran. It is about a seven-minute walk from the bus stop to the entrance to Qumran. 

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View of Qumran from the short mountain hike

Touring Qumran:

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  •  First view the short movie with its impressive photography to appreciate the lifestyle of the people who lived in Qumran. You can request that the movie be shown in English. 

 

  •  The exit from the movie theatre leads directly to a small museum that depicts different aspects of the beliefs of this Qumran sect and their daily routine. The museum is currently closed for renovations. When it is open, it is suggested that you frame your visit to this site around the features shown in the museum.

 

I have no information about the nature of the current renovations, but in the past the museum showed a triangular room Illustrating Cave 1 as would have been seen by the Bedouin when he entered it in 1947. Then is a model of a ritual bath with citations from the scrolls concerning purification rules observed by the community. Next, is the community dining area with replicas of the clay vessels that were placed in the storeroom. The last room contains a copy of the Scroll of the Community Rule and a replica of one of the plaster tables found in the scriptorium.

 

  •  After leaving the museum, proceed to the covered octagonal structure and from here you can ascend the wooden stairs to the lookout or go on the pathway with rails for a self-directed tour.

 

Notice the aqueduct. This begins near the bottom of a dry waterfall by the cliff and had a dam. It would have filled with water during winter flash floods and t provided water to the cisterns and ritual baths (mikva’ot).

 

Maintaining ritual purity was an important feature of life here and there are many ritual baths (mikva’ot). They can be identified by their broad steps and sometimes some form of midline separation, as it would have been important to separate between impure and pure individuals.

 

Look for the dining room, which was the largest room in the complex and was where members of the Yachad would gather for their communal meals. The nature of the room was identified from a considerable amount of smashed pottery in an adjoining room, probably smashed during the earthquake.

 

The scriptorium is where manuscripts were written and was in an upper room that collapsed into this lower room. It was identified as such from ink wells found within the room. Archeologically, ink wells are a very rare finding and they suggest that writing manuscripts was a feature of life here. There were also plastered tables in the room (not shown here). Members of this community did not write all the Dead Sea Scrolls, and some predated them and would have been part of their library. It has been suggested that the tables were not used for writing. Like monks, they wrote in the squatting position and the tables were used for drying the manuscripts.

 

The pottery room is where they made some of the pottery they used. For example, the cylindrical flasks enclosing the Dead Sea scrolls would have been made here.

 

The watchtower would have been used to look out for adversaries. There are useful signs identifying the views you are seeing.

 

An interesting question is where people slept. Some of the buildings, including the watchtower were two story. If people actually slept in these buildings, then the place would only have accommodated at the most 10-20 people. The assumption is that members of this commune slept in tents and in caves in the surrounding area.

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The communal dining room

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The first cave on the short mountain hike

A short hike on the cliff: 

 

A fun thing to do is to hike to one of the caves above the settlement, and from this elevation there are spectacular views. There is no chance of finding scrolls here, but your kids may enjoy a make-believe search for them! 

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  • Head out towards the cliffs, but instead of going straight on the green trail, cross the aqueduct by a small bridge shortly after leaving Qumran. The path is unmarked except for two white arrows.

 

  • You will eventually come to a large open cave. If you want to explore it you will need to climb to its entrance, and this is slightly difficult. Much easier is to keep on walking up the rocky path and within a few minutes you will come to another smaller cave. 

 

  • Continue ascending for a few more minutes and you will reach a plateau from which you can view the surrounding area.

 

  • Return the way you came. 

A hike along the Scroll Trail

 

A very interesting and scenic hike in the Judean Desert is on the Scroll Trail. This is a well-marked and delineated trail that starts near the entrance to Kibbutz Kalya and proceeds to Qumran National Park. You pass by Caves 11, 5 and 1. They are identified by signs. Cave 1 is where Dead Sea Scrolls were first discovered by Bedouin.

​Directions, starting point and parking: Enter "Qumran" into Waze, but after taking the turn off from Rout 90 to Qumran, almost immediately turn right at the fork in the direction of Kibbutz Kalya. Continue past the entrance to the kibbutz and continue straight after the roundabout parallel to the kibbutz fence. The beginning of the green-marked trail is about 100-meter beyond the white water pipes and water tower. Parking is on the side of the road. If there are no parking places, go back to the water tower where there is more parking space.

Time: Total time from the beginning of the trail, viewing the ruins and walking back to the car is about 3 hours

Distance:About 4½ to 5 km round trip including the national park.

Type of hike: Circular

Difficulty:Mainly easy hiking on gravel or pebbly paths. Use good footwear. The return to the car from Qumran is on paved roads.

Public transport: Enter "Qumran" into Moovit and click on "Khirbat Kumran.” A bus leaves frequently from the Jerusalem Central Bus Station and stops at the junction for Kibbutz Kalya and Qumran. It is about 40-minute/2-km walk from the bus stop to the beginning of the green trail. 

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Cave 1 where the first set of Dead Sea Scrolls was discovered

The hike:

 

  • Continue along the green-marked trail following the signposts to Qumran. The first caves you will see from the partially covered station are the twin caves. It was suspected that the temple fortune described by the Copper Scroll might be here. But no treasure was found. Along the way you will see Cave 11, Cave 5 and Cave 1. Cave 1 is where the first Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered by a Bedouin.

 

  • Once you reach the park, you will need to enter the main building to pay the entrance fee. This will enable you to watch the movie and see the displays in the museum.

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  • To return to your car, take the road from the park and turn left along the road to Kibbutz Kalya. It is almost a 2-km walk and will take you about 35 minutes. You can also try and get a ride. There is sparse but continuous traffic on this approach road to the kibbutz.

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The twin caves

OVERVIEW

THE SECTARIANS OF QUMRAN AND THEIR PREPARATIONS FOR THE WORLD TO COME

In 1947, two Bedouin shepherds found a small collection of ancient scrolls in a cave in the Judean desert. This led to the discovery of intact scrolls and fragments of over 900 scrolls written by Jews at the end of the Second Temple period. Among these scrolls were the oldest extant copies of parts of the Hebrew Bible, as well as sectarian literature describing the beliefs and practices of an unusual Jewish sect. The discovery of the “Dead Sea Scrolls” placed in the caves around Qumran for safekeeping, or possibly to hide them from the Romans, has been one of the most important discoveries in modern Biblical research. About five decades after the scrolls were discovered, the home of the sectarians who authored them was excavated in nearby Qumran. 

 

According to the Jewish historian Josephus, there were three main groups of Jews at the end of the Second Temple period — Pharisees, Sadducees and Essenes. The Pharisees were Sages whose ideas and rulings were based on the Jewish oral tradition. These were recorded in the Mishnah and Talmud and form the basis of Rabbinic Judaism.

 

The Sadducees did not accept the Jewish oral tradition and based their practices on their understanding of the written Bible. They rejected key doctrines accepted by the Pharisees, such as the concepts of an afterlife, messianic redemption, and resurrection of the dead. The Sadducees were very influential politically and for a time controlled the high priesthood in the Temple. 

 

The Essenes were an ascetic sect that lived in Jerusalem and other cities, and they numbered about 4,000 people. Most researchers believe that a group of Essene priests, who were probably an extreme group, came to Qumran in the late Hellenistic-Roman period. The Roman historian Pliny the Elder writes, "On the west side of the Dead Sea, but out of range of noxious exhalations of the coast, is the solitary tribe of the Essenes..." He goes on to describe a group of celibate men living together, focusing on their interpretation of spirituality, renouncing material comforts, and pooling their resources as an economic collective. 

 

What motivated these people to leave Jerusalem and live in the desert?

This was a time of heightened messianic expectations among the Jewish people, and this Qumran sect believed that a final apocalyptic battle between the forces of light and darkness was imminent and this would usher in the perfection of the messianic era. They viewed the priesthood in Jerusalem as corrupt and they broke away to lead a holy and ascetic existence in preparation for the End of Days. 

 

Based on what we know from the descriptions in their scrolls, they ate their meals together in a communal dining hall in total silence. Meals were preceded by ritual immersion, just as food from the Temple was eaten by priests in a state of ritual purity. This would explain the large number of ritual baths found at Qumran. They also donned special white clothing for their meals, which may have been regarded as a substitute for the sacrificial service in the Temple. They spent much of their time in prayer and studying Jewish texts, and they supported themselves with scribal work and agriculture. Agriculture would have been done at nearby Enot Tsukim. The Essene calendar for the Jewish festivals was different from that of the Pharisees and Sadducees, in that it was based solely on the solar calendar and not a solar-adjusted lunar calendar used by other Jews.

 

The first detected fortified settlement here was in the 8th century BCE and it continued until the end of the First Temple period. An oval water cistern is the only remnant from this period. Qumran was first settled by Essenes at the time of the Hasmonean kings, John Hyrcanus or Alexander Jannaeus, towards the end of the second century BCE. The site was abandoned during the time of Herod following an earthquake, but was resettled after about a quarter of a century. It remained in use until it was destroyed by the Romans during the Great Revolt of 68 CE. 

In general, Judaism does not value asceticism, and the ideas of the Essenes had little influence on mainstream Judaism. Jesus was not an Essene, but early Christians may have been influenced by the asceticism and messianic ideas of this sect. The movie shown here suggests that John the Baptist visited Qumran, and some believe he spent as long as two years here. John the Baptist baptized Jesus, and according to the Christian gospels, this was when Jesus was proclaimed as the Messiah. Both John and Jesus believed in an immanent Kingdom of God.

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