Nitzana National Park
In the Western Negev close to the Egyptian border, the ruins of Nitzana are certainly off the beaten track. This was a desert town during the Byzantine period. At the moment, the road to Nitzana leads to nowhere. However, in the past it was an important settlement on the road to central Sinai, in particular to St. Catherine’s Monastery and the port of El Arish. You can visit the acropolis, which once contained a fortress, and below this was the lower city.
The best-selling guide for exploring in and around Jerusalem
"In and Around Jerusalem for Everyone - The Best Walks, Hikes and Outdoor Pools"
For FREE, speedy, home, courier service from Pomeranz Booksellers in Jerusalem click here (tel: 02-623 5559) and for Amazon click here. To view outstanding reviews click here.
Archeology reveals that Nitzana began as a Nabatean guard post in the 1st century BCE. It was not on the well-known spice route, but there were also side roads, and this was on a route to a port at El Arish in the Sinai. The Hasmonean Alexander Yannai occupied this place for a period. It became a well-developed settlement in the Byzantine period, with a population of about 1,500 inhabitants, and consisted of an upper city on the acropolis and a lower city below.
On the acropolis was a fortress and 3 churches. Four churches have also been found below. Indicating that this was not just a village, but a religious center tied to pilgrimage routes, possibly connected to travel to Mount Sinai. A church can be clearly seen in the lower city and one can make out the basilical layout with a nave, side aisles and apse and remains of columns and capitals. Unlike Shivta, Nitzana continued to be settled during the early Muslim Period, no doubt because of its religious function, but by the 8th century it had ceased to exist.
The Nessana papyri were found here and they record taxes, legal disputes and daily concerns from this period.
The Ottoman Empire and British Empire fought each other in the Sinai and Gaza during the First World War and this was a border area for the Ottoman Empire. On the acropolis are the remains of a German-Ottoman hospital within the ruins of the fortress. The Ottomans also established the border town of Auja al Hafir. You can see this below with its water tower. An Ottoman railway line connected the area of Lod to this town, and this railway was important for the Ottoman war effort. This remains the border area for Israel and Egypt.
The acropolis. It now contains the ruins of a German-Ottoman hospital from the 20th century and the ruins of churches
The ruins of a church in the lower city
Map showing the Nabatean trade routes., which were more extensive than just the spice route from Petra to Gaza.
The Byzantine stairway on the opposite side of the acropolis
Visiting the site
Directions: Enter “Nitzana” into Waze and click on “אתר עתיקות ניצנה.” From the parking area, there is a dirt path to the acropolis. It is about ¾ km distance nd will take you about 25 minutes
Climb up to the acropolis. To return to your car, you can return the way you came. Alternatively, go down the Byzantine stairway on the other side of the mound to see the monument. walk back to your car on the paved road.
Monument to soldiers who fell here in Israel's War of Independence
The former Ottoman border town of Auja al Hafir with water tower and railway.
It’s worth walking to the monument, which commemorates soldiers who fell here in the War of Independence. During this war, the Egyptian army made two thrusts into future Israeli territory, one along the coast and the other in the middle of the country. However, they were surrounded by the IDF and forced back into Egypt in Operation Horeb. This area subsequently became a demilitarized zone. However, in 1955 it was necessary to reconquer the territory because of Egyptian attacks and the area is now Israeli.
Nearby places of interest
There are modern settlements in the Nitzana area. These include Nitzana, which is a youth village and educational center, founded in 1987 that focuses on environmental education, desert agriculture, and youth programs. Nitzanei Sinai is a small community named after the biblical Kadesh Barnea, and there are other scattered Negev communities. This region reflects Israel’s long-term strategy of “making the desert bloom”— small, resilient communities in a harsh environment.
Nearby is the Nitzana Border Crossing. This was opened after the 1979 Egypt–Israel peace treaty (operational from 1982), and is almost exclusively used for cargo, and not tourists. It connects Israel to Egypt at El-Ouja / Abu Ujaylah in northern Sinai. It is interesting that ancient Netzana was a caravan hub to Sinai. Today, just meters away, the border crossing handles modern container trade. Having said this, this is a sensitive border and it is heavily fenced and monitored.