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Herodium Park

The palace and fortress of Herodium was one of the most beautiful palaces in the Roman Empire. This was where Herod could escape from the claustrophobia of Jerusalem where he was not particularly popular and lavishly entertain his Roman friends. It was also his administrative center. The hill on which it was built was increased to twice its height so that it would be more imposing. Before his death, Herod covered over Herodium in a cone shape so that the hill would function as his memorial. Herodium was later used by rebels during the Great Revolt and the Bar Kochba Revolt.

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Time: About 2 hours 

Difficulty: Easy walking, although there are many steps up to the fortress and down the tunnels

Directions and parking: Enter "Herodium" into Waze and click on "גן לאומי הרודיון". Park outside the office building. 

Admision: This is a site of the Israel Parks and Nature Authority. It is open from 8.00 AM to 5.00 PM April to Sept and 8.00 AM to 4.00 PM Oct to March. On Friday and holiday eves it closes one hour earlier. There is an admission charge. There is a shaded area outside the building with benches for picnicking. Cold water is available from a large tank. There are restrooms here. Cold drinks and ice cream can be bought at the ticket office. Their phone numbers are 02-595 3591 and 02-595 3592. This is their website.

Public transport: Enter "Herodium" into Moovit and click on "גן לאומי הרודיון". Bus 266 departs from Binyani Ha’uma in Jerusalem several times a day. Bus 166 leaves from Derech Chevron.

Security: Herodium is in area C. The main road to Herodium, Route 356, passes many Arab villages, but it is also the main road to Jewish settlements such as Tekoa and is usually regarded as being trouble-free.

Reception room.jpeg

Herod's palace reception room, converted into a synagogue during the Great Revolt and Bar Kochba Revolt

OVERVIEWS

HEROD THE GREAT

Herod ruled Judea, Samaria and the Galilee from 37 to 4 BCE. Most of his Jewish subjects hated him. Nevertheless, it is possible to see both positive and negative aspects to his reign. Many of these would impact the Jewish people well after his death.

 

Herod succeeded in bringing prosperity to a favored semi-independent province of Rome. He was genuinely concerned about the welfare and religious freedom of his Jewish subjects, and Judaism was able to flourish under the leadership of sages such as Hillel and Shammai. He rebuilt the Temple, and this magnificent edifice brought knowledge of monotheism to the entire Roman world. This encouraged conversions to Judaism and laid the ground for the proselytizing of the early Christians. 

 

However, he also delivered his country to Rome and destroyed any hope of Jewish independence. His power was backed by Roman legions. He eliminated all members of the Hasmonean dynasty even when they were his own flesh and blood. His appointing high priests diminished the prestige of the priesthood and encouraged corruption. The large sums of money flowing into his kingdom aggravated social tensions.  

 

Attempting to analyze his psychological state leads in contradictory directions. He was a cruel and vindictive egomaniac. Yet these same attributes enabled him to keep a tight lid on Jewish aspirations for independence, maintain peace throughout his reign, and bring fame and wealth to his kingdom. 

 

He was sent to Rome during his childhood where he was regarded as Jewish. His father, Antipater, was from a noble family in Idumaea who had converted to Judaism with his family when the Maccabees conquered Idumaea and forcibly converted the population. Herod's mother was Nabatean. Many in his kingdom regarded him as no more than half-Jewish.  

The Hasmoneans destroyed their own dynasty, and with it hopes for Jewish independence when the two sons of Alexander Yannai, Aristobulus II and Hyrcanus II, fought a civil war for kingship. Both sides appealed to Rome for support. The Roman general Pompey the Great, already reorganizing the eastern Mediterranean, intervened. In 63 BCE, he besieged and captured Jerusalem, entered the Temple precincts, and ended Judean independence. Rather than ruling directly, Rome reduced Judea’s territory, placed it under Roman oversight, installed Hyrcanus II as high priest and ethnarch (not king), and left real power with Antipater. In other words, Rome presented itself as an arbiter, not a conqueror, but kept ultimate control. For the family’s loyalty Herod was also appointed governor of Galilee, where he gained a reputation for decisive ruthless action. Antipater was eventually poisoned.

The Parthians invaded Judea and defeated the legions of Rome. Antigonus, a nephew of Hyrcanus, chose to ally with the Parthians and took over Jerusalem. He pursued Herod, catching up with him and his entourage close to Bethlehem. Herod barely survived the desperate battle, and fled to Rome. He was received by his patron Mark Antony and with his backing the Roman Senate proclaimed him “King of the Jews.” Herod now spent the next 3 years fighting Antigonus with a Roman army until he succeeded in conquering Jerusalem. Antigonus was beheaded and his supporters were killed.

 

Following the assassination of Julius Cesar, Mark Anthony and Octavian vied for power, and in the naval Battle of Actium the forces of Mark Anthony were defeated and Mark Anthony and Cleopatra committed suicide. Octavian renamed himself Augustus and began the process of changing Rome from a republic to an empire. Herod had been the protégé of Mark Anthony but he ingratiated himself with Augustus, who saw the usefulness of such a ruthless person, and a close friendship developed between them that was advantageous to both during Herod's 34-year reign.

 

Herod maintained his close connections to Rome by adopting the ways of a Roman aristocrat. His palace displayed the best of Roman decor. Guests to Herodium were entertained in its amphitheater and fed with the finest of imported foods and wines. 

 

To satisfy his egomania and curry favor with his subjects, Herod began building on a lavish scale. The best technological building skills of the Roman Empire were brought to his kingdom. For the Jews, he built a tomb over the Cave of Machpela, the site where the Jewish patriarchs and matriarchs were buried, and he rebuilt the Temple. Jews from throughout the Empire flocked to its precincts. Its construction was one of the wonders of the Roman world and Jerusalem became famous as a tourist site, even for non-Jews. For the pagans in his kingdom, he built Sabastia in Samaria and the port of Caesarea. 

 

His personal life was a shamble. He was fond of women and had 10 wives. He married Miriam, a granddaughter of Hyrcanus, to provide legitimacy to his rule. However, he was paranoid, perhaps with justification, of a Hasmonean attempt to return to power. He appointed Miriam's brother, Aristobulus III, as High Priest, but when Aristobulus flaunted his popularity Herod invited him to his winter palace in Jericho and drowned him in a pool. He genuinely loved Miriam, but she was framed as being associated with a palace intrigue and he had her put to death. His two sons by Miriam were suspected of treachery and were strangled.

 

Following his death, no ruler after him was able to replicate his ability to create some form of modus vivendi between Jewish and Roman culture. Not his son Herod Archelaus who reigned after him, but who was fired by Augustus for cruelty and divisiveness. Nor for the Roman procurators appointed by Rome who lacked the sensitivity to be able to dampen the messianic yearnings of the Jewish people for independence. Within 74 years after his death the Jews revolted against Rome in the Great Revolt of 70 CE. The glorious Temple he had erected was destroyed and the Jerusalem he had helped beautify was burned to the ground.

WHY DID HEROD BUILD HERODIUM?

 

Unlike his other building projects that were often named after influential friends and relatives, Herod named Herodium after himself. It was a palace that reflected his personality. This was where he could act like a Roman and entertain and impress his Roman friends. 

 

But why erect a palace and fortress on the edge of the desert when he already had so many other luxurious palaces? According to the historian Josephus, this location had sentimental associations to him. It was here that he had defeated the Parthians when escaping from Jerusalem. It adjoined the border with Idumaea, the birthplace of his father. It was located on the main road to Nabatea, the birthplace of his mother. It was also close to Jerusalem.

 

Herodium consisted of a fortified palace on top of a mountain, a 300-seat amphitheater on the side of the mountain, and a "country club", Lower Herodium, at its base. 



The palace was a circular structure surrounded by two parallel walls with four towers that faced the four coordinates of the compass. The eastern tower was the largest and was circular, while the others were semi-circular. Its base was solid and built on bedrock, while the others were built on earth. This base served to strengthen the entire structure. Around the outer wall of the fortress were windows through which circulating air cooled the entire building.

 

Guests ascended to the palace from the base of the mountain on 200 pure white marble steps. Activities of the palace took place within its central enclosure. On its eastern side was an ornamental garden with colonnades, and on its western side a courtyard, a complete Roman bathhouse, living quarters and reception hall. The latter was used for entertaining and dining, all on a lavish scale.

 

On the northern side of the mountain slope, Herod built a 400-seat theater connected to the palace by the marble stairway. At the top of the theater was a theatre box for himself and privileged guest. Its walls were decorated with frescoed paintings. The best artists from Rome were brought to his kingdom to paint this artwork. The top level is now enclosed by glass to preserve its artwork. This entire structure was probably built for one particular guest, Marcus Aggripa, Augustus’ viceroy. The frescoes portrayed scenes of his life through imaginary windows, including the Battle of Actium which he had commanded, and were obviously designed to impress him.

 

At the very bottom of the mountain was a “country club”, Lower Herodium. This was almost a small town and contained a large ornamental pool, gardens and baths, and living accommodation for his numerous staff. Lower Herodium is not usually part of a tour, but its ruins can be clearly seen from the top and northern side of the mountain. 

 

A specially built 6 Km-aqueduct brought water from King Solomon’s Pools to the complex. It was once thought that this aqueduct brought water directly to Lower Herodium, but it is now realized that water went directly to four cisterns beneath the palace. Although on a hill, they were still 40 meter below the level of Solomon’s Pools. From there, some of the water was directed to Lower Herodium from the cisterns.

 

As a master schemer, Herod was always one step ahead of the game. He even planned his own funeral years before his death. Two years before he died, by which time he was probably already sick and aware that his time on earth was limited, he built a mausoleum for himself on the side of the hill adjacent to the amphitheater. He also converted the mountain into a monument to himself by covering the theater and palace with earth and rock, exposing only his tomb and making the mountain dome-shaped and even more noticeable from afar.  

 

Herodium may have been covered up, but this was not the end of Herodium as a functional building. It was taken over by Jewish rebels during their Great Revolt against the Romans in 70 CE. They converted Herod's reception hall into a synagogue by erecting pillars and placing benches along its walls, constructed two ritual baths in the courtyard, and dug a tunnel to the cisterns so they could draw water without being seen by the Romans.

Herodium was again occupied during the Bar Kochba revolt (132-136 CE), and likely functioned as a second headquarters for Bar Kochba. Tunnels were dug by the cisterns and beneath the former palace for carrying out surprise attacks against the Romans. The rocks from tunnel making were dumped into the cisterns. Much of this debris has been removed during archeological excavations and it is now possible to walk through many of these tunnels. 

 

In the Byzantine period, one of the wings of the courtyard was converted into a small chapel. Lower Herodium also contains the ruins of a Byzantine farming community and there were four chapels, one at the top and the others in Lower Herodium. Why so many chapels were needed is not known.

 

Today, the mountain of Herodium is the tallest mountain in the Judean Desert and can be identified from many kilometers away because of its characteristic shape. It is one of the most impressive archeological sites in Israel. Herod planned that after his death he would not be forgotten. For better or worse, he succeeded.

Viewing Herodium:

 

  • View the short movie about Herod in the ticket office building. It can be seen in Hebrew or English and is about Herod’s funeral. This is a bit like reading the last chapter of a book and skipping everything before it and it might be better to leave it the last. Where Herod was buried had been a focus of archeologists here. There is also a model here of Herodium showing in particular how it would look topographically.

 

  • Exit the back door of the building and take the lowermost path towards the palace. You will soon reach a vantage point from which to look down at Lower Herodium. There is a sign identifying the various parts of the ruins.

 

  • You will soon come to the theater and its skybox. The upper section is closed off in order to preserve the frescoes. In the lower section are shown two short movies which can be viewed in English. They show the history of this section of Herodium and how this section was eventually destroyed by Herod prior to his death.

 

  • On the left of the staircase is a model of Herod’s impressive tomb built of limestone with numerous decorations. It faced Jerusalem, was built on a square foundation, rose to a height of approximately 25 meters, had three stories of rooms, and a conical roof. The remains of three sarcophagi were found near to it, a reddish one was probably that for Herod. Rebels later smashed the mausoleum to the ground and also Herod’s sarcophagus. The other two were tossed out of the mausoleum and were found broken at its foot.

 

  • The stairway will lead you to the courtyard. Go up the stairs to the walkway around the fortress. Looking at the palace ruins below you, you should be able to identify the four towers, with the eastern tower being the most intact. Herod probably had his living quarters within this tower. 



  • You are now walking on top of earthen ramparts used by Herod to enlarge the mountain before his death. On the path is a helpful model of the palace. Continue on the path around the mountaintop for incredible views from all sides. There are signs to help you identify places you are viewing. Opposite the northern tower you can see parts of Jerusalem, including the Mount of Olives, Ramat Rachel and Har Homa. If you have good eyesight, you can make out Bethlehem, Ma'ale Adumim and Efrat in the distance. From adjacent to the western tower is an excellent view of Teko’a and other nearby Jewish settlements, and from the southern tower the expanse of the Judean Desert and the Dead Sea. You can walk to the top of the eastern tower which has a covered observation area.

 

  • Descend to the enclosure of the palace. Notice how Herod’s large reception hall was converted to a synagogue either during the Great Revolt or the Bar Kochba Revolt. The walls of the palace would have been covered with plaster and decorated with frescoes. Visit the Roman-design bathhouse. The first room you come to is a circular tepid room and has a stone dome. This was before concrete began to be used by the Romans.

  

  • At the foot of the Eastern tower are railings leading to the entrance to the tunnel system. The first tunnel you walk through was built during the Great Revolt and allowed Jews to take water from the lower cisterns into the palace without being seen by the Romans. Close to this is a network of tunnels built during the Bar Kochba revolt for surprise attacks against the Romans. 

 

  • From the underground tunnels, take the concrete path back to the ticket office building.

Lower Heroidium II.jpeg

View over Lover Herodium

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The theater on the slope of Herodium

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Model of Herodium on the upper walkway

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Model of Herod's tomb

Nearby places of interest

Sde Bar Farm is close to Herodium. It has a store that sells cheeses manufactured in the farm and wine, and a restaurant overlooking the Judean Desert that serves hot drinks, salads and cheese plates. The restaurant is open Sunday to Thursday 10.00 AM to 6.00 PM, and Friday 9.00 AM to 4.00 PM. It is kosher lemehadrin and closed on Shabbat. Their phone number is (052) 525-5710 and email address info@sde-bar.com. There is also a farm and petting zoo that can be visited during the summer, "The Exotic Animal Experience". Call (055) 666-0897 for hours. 

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