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Mamshit National Park

The Nabatean kingdom in the Negev for many centuries controlled the lucrative incense and spice trade between Arabia and Gaza. When that came to an end, courtesy of the Romans, they went into agriculture and converted the surrounding desert into productive farmland by capturing floodwaters. Mamshit, near Dimona, was one of the waystations in their incense route, and from the ruins and explanatory signs one can recreate the way of life of the Nabateans.

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DirectionsEnter “Mamshit” into Waze.

Admission: This is a site of the Israel Parks and Nature Authority. It is open in the summer from 8.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. Sunday to Thursday and Saturday, and on Friday and holiday eves from 8.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m., and holiday eves 8.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m. In the winter, the park closes one hour earlier.  Admission is up to an hour before closing. Admission is 24 NIS for adults, 10 NIS for children and 12 NIS for seniors. There are restrooms near the entrance to the park There is a shaded picnic area. Also, a camping area. There is no store. Their phone number is 08 655-6478. This is their website.

Public transport: Enter “Mamshit” into Moovit. There is a bus from Dimona. Otherwise, take a 1.4-km/18-minute walk from Dimona.

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The gate of the city: The gate and wall of the city were built by the Roman army around 300 CE. The gate was roofed and protected by two towers. It was burnt and destroyed in the 7th century CE.

There is a brochure in English with a map, and it advised to follow the map and the arrows at the site. The site is well explained with multiple signs. Many of the signs contain pictures of how the building would have looked when functional. The paths are easy, although there are steps. There is just over 2 km of walking to cover the site and it will take about 1½ hours.

 

It is possible to walk to the dam in the wadi, but the paths are not marked and there is no designated trail.

Who were the Nabateans?

The Nabateans (also spelled Nabataeans) were nomads from Northern Arabia who developed a wealthy and sophisticated kingdom from the 4th century BCE in southern Jordan, the Negev and northwest Arabia. They controlled the lucrative incense and spice trade, and their incense route transported frankincense and myrrh, which were aromatic resins produced in southern Arabia (modern Yemen and Oman), that were highly valued in the ancient world. They also transported spices, gold, textiles, bitumen, salt, and precious stones.

Their incense route went from northwestern Arabia (around modern-day Hejaz) and entered Edom and the Negev to Petra, which was the Nabatean capital and a major trading hub. From there goods were transported to Avdat, a fortified station in the Negev, Mampsis (Mamshit) and Shivta (Sobata), Nabatean caravan towns and resting points, and Haluza (Elusa), which was last major stop before the Mediterranean port of Gaza. From Gaza, goods were exported to Egypt, Greece, and Rome.

By the 1st century CE, Rome opened maritime routes through the Red Sea to India and Arabia. Sea transport was faster and cheaper than desert caravans and this undercut the Nabateans’ control of overland commerce. Their economy weakened, and their political leverage declined. In 106 CE, the Roman Emperor Trajan peacefully annexed the Nabatean Kingdom and turned it into the province of Arabia Petraea.

The towns of Avdat, Shivta, and Mamshit continued to prosper under Roman and later Byzantine rule, and transitioned into agricultural frontier towns, but not as trade centers.

Their great accomplishment was transforming the desert into productive farmland by capturing seasonal floodwaters and channeling them into controlled irrigation. This enabled the cultivation of vineyards, wheat and barley, olive orchards and pasture for livestock.

The Nabatean language gradually gave way to Greek and later Arabic, although inscriptions continued for a few centuries. By the 4th century CE, the Nabateans had assimilated into the broader Greco-Roman culture and later into the Byzantine culture. Concomitant with developments in the Roman Empire, their cities became Christian.

Even though desert, the Negev was not empty of people prior to the Nabateans. From the 2nd millennium to the 10th century BCE, the Amalekites operated in the Negev, northern Sinai and Aravah. They engaged in raiding and were mobile pastoralists. Their military power was broken by Saul and David. From the 10th to 4th centuries BCE, the desert corridor was occupied by nomadic or semi-nomadic peoples. These included the Edomites or Idumeans. From the 6th century BCE, the Edomites expanded into the Negev, especially after Babylon destroyed the country of Judah. They controlled the Aravah copper mines. There were also Midianites and Qedarites, an Arab tribal federation from northern Arabia that controlled portions of the incense trade.

The collapse of Edom under Babylonian and then Persian domination allowed Arab nomadic tribes from the east, including the Nabateans, to move into the vacuum. The Nabateans were initially mobile desert traders, but over the 3rd to 2nd centuries BCE they took over Petra from the remaining Edomite population, established a structured network for the incense trade, and gradually transitioned from nomadism to a kingdom.

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Guard Tower. From first floor of the Guard Tower you have a nice view of the surroundings. Dimona was originally a Judean town. Modern Dimona was founded in 1955 with 36 families from North America. It is now the second largest city in the Negev and continues to experience growth.

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The Western Church — Church of St. Nilus. Two rows of columns divided this basilica-shaped church into three parts — the nave and two side aisles. The nave is decorated with a mosaic floor with geometric patterns, birds, peacocks and dedicatory inscriptions. The mosaic was originally repaired in 1986, but was destroyed by vandals in 1986 and is again being repaired.

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The Nabatu House. This was the largest house in the town. Next to the spacious courtyard is a large stable. Capitals bear tiny reliefs of a human head, a jug and a bull. Staircases lead to an upper stairway.

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It is possible to walk to the dam in the wadi, but the paths are not marked and there is no designated trail.

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The Wealthy House. Mamshit had no more than about a thousand inhabitants, but they were wealthy as evidenced by this grand building which consists of a central, rectangular courtyard surrounded by rooms and with a second floor (closed to visitors). Wood was not used in construction of houses. Rather, arches supported stone slabs for the roof.

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The Market. A Nabatean street with a row of rooms on either side that served as shops. On chol hamo’ed yom tov this is turned into a market nowadays.

Links to the best family activities, hikes and historic sites in the GOLAN, EASTERN GALILEE, UPPER GALILEE, LOWER GALILEE, JORDAN VALLEY & LAKE KINNERET, the SHEFELAH, TEL AVIV-YAFFO and surroundings, NORTH of TEL AVIV, and SOUTH of TEL AVIV.

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