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Mamshit National Park

Mamshit is a nicely arranged and informative partially reconstructed historic site that demonstrates in particular the transition of the Nabatean people from a kingdom of traders who practiced paganism to Christians who were part of the Roman Empire, and who developed expertise in desert agriculture through the intelligent use of water resources from flash flooding. The city reached its peak in the 4th to 6th centuries CE, but was deserted in the 7th century following the Muslim occupation, presumably because of unfavorable economic conditions.

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​DirectionsEnter “Mamshit” into Waze.

Admission: This is a site of the Israel Parks and Nature Authority. It is open in the summer from 8.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. Sunday to Thursday and Saturday, and on Friday and holiday eves from 8.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m., and holiday eves 8.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m. In the winter, the park closes one hour earlier.  Admission is up to an hour before closing. Admission is 24 NIS for adults, 10 NIS for children and 12 NIS for seniors. There are restrooms near the entrance to the park There is a shaded picnic area. Also, a camping area. There is no store. Their phone number is 08 655-6478. This is their website.

Public transport: Enter “Mamshit” into Moovit. There is a bus from Dimona. Otherwise, take a 1.4-km/18-minute walk from Dimona.

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The gate of the city: The gate and wall of the city were built by the Roman army around 300 CE. The gate was roofed and protected by two towers. It was burnt and destroyed in the 7th century CE.

A brochure is available in English with a map, and it advised to follow the map and the arrows at the site. The site is well explained with many signs. Many of these contain helpful pictures of how the building would have looked when functional. The paths are easy, although there are steps. There is just over 2 km of walking to cover the site and it will take about 1½ hours.

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  • 1. The Caravan Inns. From the 1st to 4th centuries. These are the ruins of two large complexes that served as inns for commercial caravans.

 

  • 2. The gate of the city: The gate was built by the Roman army in around 300 CE and they also built walls around the city. The gate was roofed and protected by two towers. It was burnt and destroyed in the 7th century CE.

 

  • 3. The Wealthy House. Mamshit had no more than about a thousand inhabitants, but they lived very comfortably, as evidenced by this grand building. It consists of a central, rectangular courtyard surrounded by rooms and has a second floor (closed to visitors). Wood was not used in construction of houses. Rather, arches supported stone slabs for the roof. The northern rooms were residential. Their walls had niches that served as closets.

 

  • 4. Guard Tower. Climb to the first floor of the Guard Tower from where you have a great view of the surroundings, including the city of Dimona.

 

Dimona was originally a Judean town. Modern Dimona was founded in 1955 with 36 families from North America. Area-wise it is the largest city in Israel, and in terms of its population is the second largest city in the Negev, and it continues to experience growth. In Wadi Mamshit below three dams were built by the Roman army in about 200 CE. (Today, only the lower dam can be seen and you can get a closer look by walking outside the city wall).

 

  • 5. The Western Church — Church of St. Nilus. This was more in the way of a private church for Nilus and is placed within the grounds of his home. Two rows of columns divided this basilica-shaped church into three parts — the nave and two side aisles. The nave is decorated with a mosaic floor with geometric patterns, birds, peacocks and dedicatory inscriptions. Peacoks were a sign of fertility and eternity. The mosaic was originally repaired in 1986, but was destroyed by vandals in 1986 and is again being repaired.

 

  • 7. The Eastern Church. This church was part of a monastery complex. A mosaic with two crosses was discovered in the nave. This is evidence that the church was built before 427 CE, when crosses were no longer allowed as decorations on church floors (because of disrespect. Note the adult baptismal chamber with an adjoining Nabatean column, perhaps conveying the message that baptism is not a big deal for the Nabatean people.

 

  • 9. The Market. A Nabatean street with a row of rooms on either side that served as shops. Nowadays, on chol hamo’ed yom tov it is turned into a market.

 

  • 10. The Nabatu House. This was the largest house in the town. It received this name because of its many Nabatean features. Next to the spacious courtyard is a large stable. Capitals bear tiny reliefs of a human head, a jug and a bull. Staircases lead to an upper stairway. One of the rooms contains frescoes with Greek mythological features of love. It was in this house that a hoard of silver conis were found dating from between 75 to 200 CE.

Who were the Nabateans?

 

The Nabateans (also spelled Nabataeans) were nomads from Northern Arabia who controlled the lucrative incense and spice trade and developed a wealthy and sophisticated kingdom in southern Jordan, the Negev and northwest Arabia from the 4th century BCE. Their 2,400-km incense route transported frankincense and myrrh, which were aromatic resins produced in southern Arabia (modern Yemen and Oman) that were highly valued in the ancient world. They also transported spices, gold, textiles, bitumen, salt, and precious stones.

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The Spice Route began in southern Arabia, entered Edom and the Negev to the city of Petra, which was the Nabatean capital and a major trading hub. From there, goods were transported to Avdat and Haluza (Elusa), which was the last major stop before the Mediterranean port of Gaza. From Gaza port, goods were exported to Egypt, Greece, and Rome.

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Mamshit was started as a khan by the Nabateans. It sits near passes leading from the Arava Valley to the Negev highlands and thence northward toward Be’ersheva and Gaza. It was also on a route to Eilat via the The Scorpion Trail (in Hebrew Ma'ale Akrabim, “Ascent of the Scorpions”), which descends the steep escarpment between the central Negev highlands and the Arava Valley not far from Mamshit. Remains of this ancient zigzag path are still visible.

 

By the 1st century CE, Rome opened maritime routes through the Red Sea to India and Arabia. Sea transport was faster and cheaper than desert caravans and this undercut the Nabateans’ control of commerce. Their economy weakened, and their political leverage declined. In 106 CE, the Roman Emperor Trajan peacefully annexed the Nabatean Kingdom and turned it into the province of Arabia Petraea. Avdat, Shivta and Mamshit continued to prosper under Roman and later Byzantine rule and transitioned into agricultural frontier towns, although not as trade centers.

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Their great accomplishment as agriculturalists was transforming the desert into productive farmland by capturing seasonal floodwaters and channeling them into controlled irrigation. This enabled the cultivation of vineyards, wheat and barley, olive orchards and pasture for livestock. Their wine was much valued in the Christian Roman Empire and commanded high prices as wine from the Holy Land. Their success in desert agriculture is of relevance even today.

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The Nabatean language gradually gave way to Greek and later Arabic, although inscriptions in their original language continued for a few centuries. By the 4th century CE, the Nabateans had assimilated into the broader Greco-Roman culture and later into the Christian Byzantine culture. The ruins of their impressive churches are very evident.

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Mamshit is located in the Madaba Map and is called there Memphis.

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Even though desert, the Negev was not empty of people prior to the Nabateans. From the 2nd millennium to the 10th century BCE, the Amalekites operated in the Negev, northern Sinai and Arava. They engaged in raiding and were mobile pastoralists. Their military power was broken by Saul and David. From the 10th to 4th centuries BCE, the desert corridor was occupied by nomadic or semi-nomadic peoples. These included the Edomites (or Idumeans). From the 6th century BCE, the Edomites expanded into the Negev, particularly after Babylon destroyed the country of Judah. They controlled the Arava copper mines. There were also Midianites and Qedarites, an Arab tribal federation from northern Arabia that controlled portions of the incense trade.

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The collapse of Edom under Babylonian and then Persian domination allowed Arab nomadic tribes from the east, including the Nabateans, to move into the vacuum. The Nabateans were initially mobile desert traders, but over the 3rd to 2nd centuries BCE they took over Petra from the remaining Edomite population, established a structured network for the incense trade, and gradually transitioned from nomadism to a kingdom with towns.

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4. Guard Tower. From first floor of the Guard Tower you have a nice view of the surroundings. Dimona was originally a Judean town. Modern Dimona was founded in 1955 with 36 families from North America. It is now the second largest city in the Negev and continues to experience growth.

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3. The Wealthy House. Mamshit had no more than about a thousand inhabitants, but they were wealthy as evidenced by this grand building which consists of a central, rectangular courtyard surrounded by rooms and with a second floor (closed to visitors). Wood was not used in construction of houses. Rather, arches supported stone slabs for the roof.

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7. The adult baptismal in the Eastern Church. Note the adjacent Nabatean column that no doubt was s ending a message..

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10. The Nabatu House. This was the largest house in the town. Next to the spacious courtyard is a large stable. Capitals bear tiny reliefs of a human head, a jug and a bull. Staircases lead to an upper stairway.

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3. Note the depressed area between the 1st and 2nd floors. This was built for earthquakes and would have prevented collapse of thesecond floor

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5. The Western Church — Church of St. Nilus. Two rows of columns divided this basilica-shaped church into three parts — the nave and two side aisles. The nave is decorated with a mosaic floor with geometric patterns, birds, peacocks and dedicatory inscriptions. The mosaic was originally repaired in 1986, but was destroyed by vandals in 1986 and is again being repaired.

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9. The Market. A Nabatean street with a row of rooms on either side that served as shops. On chol hamo’ed yom tov this is turned into a market nowadays.

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I0. Roman-period fresco in a room in the Nabatu House, showing Eros the god of love and psyche, the personification of the soul.

Circular hike in Wadi Mamshit

 

This is a very pleasant hike to round off your day in Mamshit.

Head to the western edge of the site, near a lookout point over the wadi. A red-marked trail leads you down from the ridge into the wadi channel. The descent is short and easy, with wide views over the dry valley.

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At the bottom, you are walking along a broad, shallow stream bed (which is dry most of the year). The landscape is open, with low cliffs and rolling hills rather than steep canyon walls. The vegetation is sparse but interesting with small desert plants and seasonal herbs grow after rains. Within about 10–15 minutes, you reach ancient Nabataean dams built across the wadi to capture flash floods and which were later restored in the British Mandate period. Here you can clearly see how desert agriculture worked: floodwater was slowed and spread out, terraces nearby were irrigated, and this supported farming in an otherwise arid environment

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The trail continues gently along the valley floor and you pass ancient agricultural terraces and more subtle remains of water systems. After roughly another kilometer or so you reach a well still used by local Bedouin today. The route will take you back to Mamshit.

(A longer walk is to continue down the wadi toward Road 206 for about 3–4 km total, but this will require a second car or pickup at the end.)

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