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Avdat National Park

Two stories are told at Avdat National Park, and both meet up only tangentially at this national park. One is about the Nabatean traders and is described well in the entrance pavilion. The other is when the Nabateans gave up trading, became agriculturalists in the middle of the desert, and adopted Christianity. This story is evident from the ruins of the central acropolis or Roman fortress at the top of the hill.

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DirectionsEnter “עבדת גן לאומי into Waze in Hebrew. (Entering “Avdat National Park” in English leads you to the entry to Ein Avdat National Park, which is a totally different place). Park at the lower parking lot for the entrance pavilion.

Admission: This is a site of the Israel Nature and Parks Authority. Summer hours are Sunday to Thursday and Saturday 8.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. and Friday and holiday eves 8.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. From July 26 to August 31, the site is open until 6.00 p.m. on Thursdays and Fridays. Winter hours are Sunday to Thursday and Saturday 8.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. and Friday and holiday eves 8.00 a.m. to 3.00 p.m. Entrance to the park is up to half an hour prior to cited closing time. There is an admission charge. Their phone number is 08 655 1511. This is their website. Adjoining the lower parking lot is a gas station and cafes.

Public transport: Enter ”עבדת גן לאומי “ into Moovit. The closest bus stop is a 800 meter/10-minute walk.

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The acropolis

There are four routes within the park — the Acropolis Trail with red markings, the Roman Army Camp Trail, with red and green trail markings, the Winepresses Trail, with purple, blue, red and green tail markings, and the Caves Trail with blue and red trail markings. None of this is particularly intuitive, and you will need to decide how much walking you wish to do and how much time you have available. Most people will confine themselves to the Acropolis Trail, which is an easy loop and takes about 1½ hours, and 2which can be combined with the Roman Army Camp trail for another half an hour. The brochure describes the duration and level of challenge for each of the trails and what you will be seeing.

 

The entrance pavilion is by the lower parking lot. It contains a model of Avdat in the Nabatean period and a model of the bathhouse. A short movie can be viewed about the Nabatean traders in 15 languages. There is a display of the Incense Route and the goods that were typically transported. This pavilion contains the only restrooms for the complex.

 

Of interest, and it can be viewed from the entrance pavilion, is a vineyard containing vines from exactly the same species as those grown in the Byzantine period. Everyone is waiting to find out how the wine will turn out!

 

For the Acropolis Route, drive up to the upper parking lot for the fortress. This was built in the center of the settlement and used for assemblies and as a refuge for the residents at times of danger. There are also a few remnants of the Nabatean settlement from the Early Roman and the Late Roman periods.

 

You will first come across a Roman tower (#2 in the brochure). It has an inscription in Greek “With good fortune Zeus Obada, help Irenius who built this tower with good augers in the year 188 with the help of the architect Wailos of Petra and Avtichos.” Zeus Obada was probably King Obada II, who was worshipped as a god by the city’s inhabitants. Continue to the street of the Byzantine Quarter (4), which was settled in the Late Roman period. Follow the map to the winepress (14). This has storage cells, a reading floor and collecting vats, and offers a spectacular view of Wadi Sin and Wadit Avdat where the grapes were grown.

 

There are two churches here. The southern Church of St. Theodoros (18) was both a church and active monastery. In the atrium of the church is a model of the church and the atrium is surrounded by rooms where the monks would have lived. The church has a number of marble tombstones with inscriptions dating to 541 to 618 CE. The earliest is that of the martyr Theodoros, for whom the church is named.

 

 The northern church (19) is the oldest church in Avdat. Alongside it is a baptistery for adults and children. Next to this is a reconstructed portion of a gate, the only remnant of a Nabatean temple (21). Inscriptions from the 3rd century CE reveal that this was a temple to Zeus-Obada. The dedication inscription carved into the gate’s lintel is dated to 268 CE. There is an explanatory sign about the Incense Route at the lookout next to the gate.

 

It is worth going to the southeastern gate of the fortress (11) for the view of the Avdat Plateau, the location of the Incense Route, and a Roman army camp. At the foot of the tower is a water channel (13) that drained rainwater from the streets to a large cistern (13).

 

At this point, you will turn back to the upper parking lot. Alternatively, you can continue on the Roman Army Camp Trail, which also returns to the upper parking lot. This is an easy trail, adds about ½ hour and includes the Nabatean settlement (8), Roman army camp (9), pottery workshop, and farmhouse (10).

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The Spice Route and goods transported shown in the entrance pavilion.

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Baptistery in the northern church.

Who were the Nabateans?

The Nabateans (also spelled Nabataeans) were nomads from Northern Arabia who developed a wealthy and sophisticated kingdom in southern Jordan, the Negev and northwest Arabia from the 4th century BCE. They controlled the lucrative incense and spice trade. Their 2,400-km incense route transported frankincense and myrrh, which were aromatic resins produced in southern Arabia (modern Yemen and Oman), and that were highly valued in the ancient world. They also transported spices, gold, textiles, bitumen, salt, and precious stones.

This route began in southern Arabia, entered Edom and the Negev to Petra, which was the Nabatean capital and a major trading hub. From there goods were transported to Avdat, Mampsis (Mamshit) and Shivta (Sobata), which were Nabatean caravan towns and resting points, to Haluza (Elusa), which was last major stop before the Mediterranean port of Gaza, and from Gaza port, goods were exported to Egypt, Greece, and Rome.

By the 1st century CE, Rome opened maritime routes through the Red Sea to India and Arabia. Sea transport was faster and cheaper than desert caravans and this undercut the Nabateans’ control of commerce. Their economy weakened, and their political leverage declined. In 106 CE, the Roman Emperor Trajan peacefully annexed the Nabatean Kingdom and turned it into the province of Arabia Petraea. Nevertheless, Avdat, Shivta, and Mamshit continued to prosper under Roman and later Byzantine rule and transitioned into agricultural frontier towns, although not as trade centers.

Their great accomplishment as agriculturalists was transforming the desert into productive farmland by capturing seasonal floodwaters and channeling them into controlled irrigation. This enabled the cultivation of vineyards, wheat and barley, olive orchards and pasture for livestock. Their wine was much valued in the Roman Empire. Their success in desert agriculture is of relevance even today.

The Nabatean language gradually gave way to Greek and later Arabic, although inscriptions continued for a few centuries. By the 4th century CE, the Nabateans had assimilated into the broader Greco-Roman culture and later into the Byzantine culture. Concomitant with this development in the Roman Empire, their cities became Christian. Since their churches were impressive buildings, this is very evident in the ruins of their cities.

Even though desert, the Negev was not empty of people prior to the Nabateans. From the 2nd millennium to the 10th century BCE, the Amalekites operated in the Negev, northern Sinai and Arava. They engaged in raiding and were mobile pastoralists. Their military power was broken by Saul and David. From the 10th to 4th centuries BCE, the desert corridor was occupied by nomadic or semi-nomadic peoples. These included the Edomites (or Idumeans). From the 6th century BCE, the Edomites expanded into the Negev, particularly after Babylon destroyed the country of Judah. They controlled the Arava copper mines. There were also Midianites and Qedarites, an Arab tribal federation from northern Arabia that controlled portions of the incense trade.

The collapse of Edom under Babylonian and then Persian domination allowed Arab nomadic tribes from the east, including the Nabateans, to move into the vacuum. The Nabateans were initially mobile desert traders, but over the 3rd to 2nd centuries BCE they took over Petra from the remaining Edomite population, established a structured network for the incense trade, and gradually transitioned from nomadism to a kingdom with town abodes.

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