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Castel National Park

During the War of Independence, Arab forces prevented the passage of convoys along the only road to Jerusalem, and the Jewish section of the city was under a severe siege. The Castel National Park brings to life the struggle for this crucial strategic height overlooking the road by means of its trenches and bunkers, two audio-visual presentations (that can also be viewed in English), and three game areas that enable groups to internalize the values displayed by the Jewish combatants who fought here and that are still operative in the Israel Defense Forces (IDF).

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It is presumed that the Romans build a fortress on this hill because of its strategic position overlooking the road to Jerusalem called Castellum. In the 12th century, the Crusaders built a fortress here called Castellum Belvoir, also to guard the road to Jerusalem. This fortress was destroyed by the Kurdish leader Saladin in 1187 when he drove the Crusaders from the Judean Mountains. However, no archeological evidence of Roman or Crusader ruins has been found at this site. Until the War of Independence there was an Arab village on the hill called Al-Qastal, and the home of the muhktar of the village was located on top of the Crusader ruins. 

Fast forward to the 1948 War of Independence when West Jerusalem was under siege and there was a severe lack of food, water and arms. The Palestinians anticipated that all the neighboring Arab states would attack the Jewish state once independence was declared. Despite this, David Ben-Gurion, president of the Jewish Agency Executive, made the bold decision that the soon to be created State of Israel could not exist without its heart – Jerusalem.

 

Amin al-Husseini, the Mufti of Jerusalem, was also in a struggle for this same heart for a Palestinian state. His military campaign was run by his nephew Abd al-Qadir al-Husseini. Prior to his death, he had appealed to the Arab League to support his activities with arms, but they did not regard his activities as important enough and they refused.

The Castel occupied a commanding position over the road to Jerusalem and the story of the Castel is about how it changed hands three times before being eventually captured by the Haganah. A crucial event in the capture of the Castel and the crumbling of the Mufti's campaign was the killing of his nephew. 

Time: 2-3 hours 

Distance:

Difficulty: An easy walk.

DirectionsEnter "Castel National Park" into Waze. 

Admision: This is a site of the Israel Nature and Parks Authority. The park is open Sunday to Thursday and on Saturday 8 AM to 5.00 PM in the summer, and until 4 pm in the winter. During the summer, on Friday and holiday eves 8.00 AM to 4.00 PM. In the winter 8.00 AM to 3.00 PM. There is an entrance fee. There is a kiosk that sells drinks etc. Their phone number is: (02) 534-2741. This is their website:

Public transport: The site is easily accessible from Jerusalem by public transport. Enter "Qastel" into Moovit. From the מחלף הראל bus stop it is about a seven-minute walk to the Castel, and from the מרכז קליטה/הראל bus stop it is about a four-minute walk.

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BACKGROUND 

The 1948 struggle for the road to Jerusalem



How did a people almost decimated by the Holocaust manage to found a state against such overwhelming odds during their War of Independence? 

A number of factors should be considered. There was the realization among the Jews in Palestine that another genocide had to be prevented at all costs and motivation was extremely hight. Many of the Jewish fighters had received military training, some in the British army, while most of the Arabs fighting for Jerusalem were disorganized villagers with arms but no prior military experience.  They also had increasing manpower because of the immigration of Holocaust survivors.

 

By 1947, the British had had enough of their Mandate in Palestine. They were in a no-win situation. Both Jews and Arabs wanted independence and were prepared to fight for it. The British therefore handed the problem over to the United Nations, who revived the notion of partition, first raised in the discarded British Peel Commission partition proposal of 1937. In the United Nations plan, the Jews, who constituted thirty-two percent of Palestine’s population, would be allotted about fifty-six percent of the country, although this was mainly non-arable land in the Negev. Within this territory were about a half a million Jews and four hundred thousand Arabs. Forty-two percent of Palestine would be allotted to the Palestinians — an area that contained approximately eight hundred and eighteen thousand Arabs and ten thousand Jews. The Jerusalem region, which included Bethlehem, contained about one hundred thousand Jews and one hundred thousand Arabs and would be administered by the United Nations. 

The United Nations Partition Plan was approved by their General Assembly on November 29, 1947. The territory given to the Jews was far less than what they wanted, but they nevertheless accepted it. The Arabs rejected any form of partition, and Amin al-Husseini, the former Mufti of Jerusalem, created immediate mayhem in the country. The Palestinians realized they were not powerful enough to drive the Jews out by themselves, but they anticipated that the surrounding Arab nations would come to their aid and prevent the emergence of a Jewish State. 

The first phase of this struggle was from November 1947 until the Declaration of Independence in May 1948 and took the form of a civil war, characterized by daily attacks against Jews and tit-for-tat Jewish reprisals. There were two stages to this struggle. In the first stage from the end of November until the beginning of April, the Jews were on the defensive, with the aim of maintaining control of the areas allotted to them under the Partition Plan. The aim of the Arabs, which they failed to achieve, was to cut off the roads to Jewish settlements. During this period, two thousand Jews were killed and four thousand wounded— an average of one hundred deaths and two hundred casualties a week. The British in the main refrained from intervening, although they maintained an arms embargo over the country. In May 1948 they began withdrawing their forces.



Already in 1946, Ben-Gurion had considered the possibility of such an invasion and had procured light and heavy arms, stockpiled in Europe. The intention was to bring them to Israel as soon as the Jews controlled their own borders and the British arms embargo was no longer operative. More arms were obtained during the war and during the truces, especially from Czechoslovakia, and this infusion of armaments and aircraft proved crucial in the eventual Israeli victory.

In December 1947, all Israeli men and women aged 17 to 25 years were conscripted, and by April 1948 conscription was extended to all Israeli men under age forty. By the end of the war, the Israelis had a greater force in the field than the Arabs due to general mobilization and immigration into the country.

In January 1948, a nephew of the Mufti, Abd al-Qadir al-Husseini, arrived from Egypt with a few hundred fighters. His “Army of the Holy War” recruited several hundred Arab volunteers to besiege the one hundred thousand Jews in Jerusalem using commanding positions from Arab villages overlooking Route 1, the only road to Western Jerusalem.

He was a popular and capable leader and his siege was highly successful. The Jewish part of Jerusalem was in desperate straits with insufficient food, water and ammunition supplies. Nevertheless, David Ben-Gurion was determined to defend Jerusalem at all costs. In the attempt to break the blockade and bring supplies to the city, many Hagenah armored vehicles were destroyed and hundreds of Haganah members killed. Destroyed vehicles have been left on the side of Route 1 as a memorial to this struggle.

 

By the beginning of April 1948, with the impending British withdrawal and the expected invasion of Arab armies, the Jewish leadership realized they had to go on the offensive. The first offensive operation was Operation Nachshon from April 5 to 15, which aimed to relieve the blockade of Jerusalem and its 1,500 Haganah, Givati/Palmach fighters succeeded in capturing the Arab villages overlooking the road to Jerusalem.

 

Their first objective was to take control of the Castel, and between April 2 to 3, a Palmach force attacked this strategic hilltop village. Between April 5 to 9, Arab forces counterattacked under the command of Abd al-Qadir al-Husseini. However, he was killed while doing a small reconnaissance. A huge force of Arab villagers from the surrounding villages bent on revenge again attacked the Castel and the Jews were forced to withdraw. The commanders decided to stay behind to cover the retreat and all were killed. Nevertheless, the death of al-Husseini led to the collapse of organized Arab resistance in this area, and when the Jews attacked again there was little resistance as most of the Arabs were at his funeral. He was buried on the Temple Mount.

 

Following the success of Operation Nachshon, responsibility for controlling the road to Jerusalem passed to the newly formed Palmach Harel Brigade, commanded by Yitzhak Rabin. It continued the work of Operation Nachshon and brought additional large convoys into Jerusalem, with hundreds of supply trucks. About the same time, other operations conquered the mixed Jewish-Arab cities of Tiberias, Haifa, Safed, Beisan, Jaffe and Acre, and control over the major roads was secured.

 

However, on April 20, a Harel convoy was attacked near Sha’ar HaGai or Bab-el-Wad. In operation Maccabi, the Harel Brigade and other Haganah Forces attempted to clear the western approaches between Shaar HaGai and Latrun. Beit Mahsir was particularly important as it overlooked Bab-el-Wad. This campaign was only partially successful.

On May 14, 1948, hours before the expiration of the British Mandate (the following day was the Sabbath), Ben-Gurion declared the independence of the State of Israel at a brief ceremony in Tel Aviv. As anticipated, forces from Syria, Iraq, Lebanon, Transjordan and Egypt promptly invaded the country.

The only Arab country to achieve any success in this war was Transjordan under the leadership of King Abdullah. His British-trained Arab Legion was a very effective fighting force. The aim of the king was to take over the area designated by the Partition Plan for a Palestinian state, and he was supported in this by the British who wished to maintain their influence in the country. He succeeded in annexing Judea, Samaria and East Jerusalem, including the Old City. The Jewish settlements of Gush Etzion were also conquered. Many of its defenders were massacred when they surrendered and the rest were taken prisoner. During the war, Abdullah maintained contact with the Jewish State and made no attempt to conquer areas allotted to it. The other Arab armies were poorly organized, had divergent war aims, and their advances were ultimately halted by the fledgling IDF. 

 

A critical turning point was when the Jordanian League occupied the Latrun police fortress and the strategic ridge to Bab-el-Wad. Jerusalem was effectively closed off again. The story of how this was overcome will be covered on a subsequent webpage.

The war ended in early 1949. Six thousand, three hundred and seventy-three Israeli soldiers and civilians had died, amounting to approximately one percent of the Jewish state's population. Israel now controlled seventy-eight percent of mandatory Palestine, which was twenty-two percent more than it had been allocated under the Partition Plan.

About seven hundred thousand Arabs fled and became refugees. Four hundred Arab villages lost their population, as did ten Jewish neighborhoods. At the same time, because of Arab hostility, there was an exodus of about eight hundred and fifty thousand Jews from Arab countries, amounting to a de facto exchange of populations. Many of these Jewish refugees had lost their properties and wealth when they fled.

Exploring the site:

  • Walk from the parking lot through the picnic area to the buildings ahead, which contain the pay kiosk and restrooms. 

 

  •  The first stop is the nearby pagoda area where there is a short introductory movie about the importance of the roads to Jerusalem during the War of Independence, and the values of determination, comradeship and leadership developed by the Palmach and that are still espoused today by the Israel Defense Forces. The movie also gives directions through the park. Press the button to the right of the screen to choose whether you want to hear the movie in Hebrew or English.

 

  • Climb up the hill on the main pathway, and get into the groove as you prepare to attack the building on top of the hill! The signs along the road will help you. There are also game areas along the way for groups and families to reinforce the core values of determination, comradeship and leadership. Instructions on playing the games are on the reverse side of the signs in Hebrew.

 

  •  At the first intersection, turn off to the right to the "Feit Lookout" to appreciate the topography of the Castel in relation to Route 1. 

 

Route 1 is just beneath you and quite close, although foliage and buildings obscure its view. However, you can see the continuation of the road to Sha'ar Hagei to the left and to Jerusalem to the right. 

 

  •  Return to the main path, and descend into the nearby trench that encircles the hilltop. These trenches were not part of the 1948 campaign, but were constructed later. It is possible to bypass the trenches. Follow the red arrows in the trenches. Enter the closed bunker, the “Authentication Simulation Bunker.” Lights come on as you enter. It consists of two sections. One has multiple-choice questions on the wall (also in English) and the other contains the answers.

 

  •  When the bunker allows you to exit, there is a memorial on the rocks to those who died in this campaign.

 

  •  Follow the sign to the "Battle Film.” You will enter the bunkers again as you go around the side of the hill to an ancient cistern where the movie is screened. This-eleven minute presentation describes the capture of the Castel and the relief of Jerusalem. It can be viewed in Hebrew or English. The control button is to the right by the entrance.

 

  •  Follow the Exit sign and make your way to the "Mukhtar's house observation area" on top of the hill. Fom here, you have a 360 degree view and can appreciate the importance of this location.

 

On your return, turn to the Feit Lookout. There is a scenic footpath from here leading down the hill to the parking lot. 

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From the observation point you have a 360 degree view of the surrounding area.

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